I concluded the previous post with a photograph of a ceramic map of the Cyclades and said that I would explain more about it later. Well, that time has come.
From the small islands we made our way to the south of Paros – to the resort town of Aliki….
…. and it was here that, whilst searching for a laundrette, we came across a folklore miniature museum and decided to visit. Far more interesting than watching clothes going round in a machine!
All of the exhibits in the museum were created by “Benetos Skiadas” ….
…..who, since the age of eleven, had worked on his uncle’s fishing boat. The need of his family for him to work meant that he wasn’t able to study, but he was an imaginative and creative man who was very proud of the Cycladian islands and who wanted to do something other than earn his living as a fisherman.
Throughout his life he made models in wood, stone, marble and pottery of famous island landmarks…..
…… and also wooden ships.
The museum is managed by his daughter “Katerina” and we had assumed that Benetos was no longer alive. However, we told our friends about the museum and when they visited the following day they actually met and exchanged a few words with him. Lucky Steve and Gill.
We spent three nights in Aliki and, just in case you are wondering, we didn’t have to wear grubby clothes – there was a laundrette a bus ride away in Paroika, the island’s main town.
From Aliki we sailed 9 miles south and west to the anchorage between Anti-Paros and Despotico.
We have been here a couple of times previously and in a much earlier post [2019] I wrote that we had “bagged” the island of Despotico. Well, we did much better than that this time! We broke our journey between Aliki and Despotico to anchor between the three small islands of “Pantieronisi”, “Vraktigani” and “Nisida Guaropunta”.
We took the dingy to the first one and then waded across the gap between them….
……to the second.
Having walked the length of that island – which took about ten minutes – we swam the gap to the third….
… and then reversed the process.
A great way to spend the morning.
But, it didn’t end there. We once again went onto Despotico and this time walked up the rise past some interesting foliage….
…..to the small ruined temple….
…. and then bagged the adjoining island of “Tsimintiri” as well.
You may have noticed that there was a strange light in the photograph of the temple. This was, we think, the result of a mixture of red dust carried in the atmosphere from the Sahara and smoke from the massive fires on Evia, around Athens and in the northern Peloponnese.
Whist at Despotico we were weather watching, as always, and noticed that there seemed to be another Meltemi on the way. It was however a long range forecast and could have easily changed but we decided that we would head north and then if all looked OK we could stay in the northern Cyclades, but if it came in then we had options of Evia or the mainland.
So, on 8th August we had a great sail to “Platys Gialos” on the southern end of the island of Sifnos…..
…. and from there, three days later, to “Koutala”, a large double headed bay on Serifos.
The rich in mineral soil of Serifos means that the island has a history of mining and there are reminders of this around the village in the west bay.
Winch and hoist… 
….Pump house
As might be expected, conditions in the mine were harsh and in 1916 there was a revolt, quelled by the police, during which both miners and police were killed. Mining continued until 1963 when the owners found richer pickings in South Africa and abandoned the mines on Serifos.
We were anchored in the east bay…
…. where the holding was reportedly better. However, if you look closely at the photograph there is a small sail boat in the left corner with a blue spray hood. We are four boats back, more or less in the middle of the photograph. In the middle of the night the small boat ended up next to us caught, we think, on our chain. When we suggested they lift their anchor they told us it was our fault… they had been watching us earlier and we moved about a lot. How exactly they thought we could have dragged forward in offshore winds I really don’t know! They said they had 15m chain out because that was enough for the 6 metres they were [still] in! We were actually in 12 metres. They just went back to bed but did leave rather sheepishly at dawn having raised their anchor to find it coated in weed and not attached to the bottom. Fortunately it was a calm night, they were a small light boat and we were well fendered.
We had read about a good restaurant a 20 minute walk away up the hill. On Google it was reported as opening at 7pm. That was actually the time it closed! We tried another small restaurant on the beach which was also closed from 7pm. Fortunately, “Granny’s” stayed open until 8pm so at least we could have a drink!
By now the forecast was fairly clear that another Meltemi of at least a week’s duration was on the way. Nice though it was for the two prolonged stays on Skhinoussa, as reported in the last post, we were a bit fed up of “hiding” and decided to head for Porto Cheli and revisit the Argolic Gulf where we had sailed in 2018. We had also been having some problems with our depth gauge and, if after further investigation, we needed to replace it we knew a good chandler in Porto Cheli and of a Raymarine specialist in Ermioni. As it happens the issue was faulty wiring which we were able to put right ourselves.
So, happy that all was now working we spent 6 nights at various anchorages to the north of Porto Cheli.
The first two nights were at two anchorages new to us. They are both north facing which is why we hadn’t been previously because of the prevailing wind but, with the light southerlies we had on those nights, these two almost deserted bays were brilliant places to drop the hook.
From there we went to Khaidhari – an almost fully enclosed anchorage we had enjoyed three years previously. Once again we walked to the nearby village of Drepano….
…. where we found an amazing fruit and vegetable stall/shop. The produce was of fantastic quality, all locally grown.
Although I had already bought some courgettes in another shop I just couldn’t resist these, and you could smell the sweetness of the melons still on the vine just by walking past them.
We also found another restaurant with great reviews – and this time it was open!
Owned by a butcher, with the shop attached….
….the meat was excellent and we had a thoroughly enjoyable evening.
There was one downside to Khaidhari. A bar/nightclub has now opened up just outside the village and right by the anchorage. Loud music until 4am. Not best… but it didn’t mar the overall enjoyment too much, though I’m not sure I would want to return again in high season.
Our final anchorage was the previously visited Koiladhia before we returned to Porto Cheli again to provision prior to returning to the Cyclades.
As a stopping off point between the Saronics and the Cyclades we had hoped to visit the island of Dhokos but all the possible anchoring spots were already full. This island is on the charter circuit lying, as it does, between Hydra and Ermioni. We therefore expected our preferred anchorage on Hydra to also be full – but, so far – and may it remain so – most charter boats don’t seem to use it so we had no problem at all.
An early start the following morning took us past Hydra Town…..
…. which was full to bursting. In fact, as well as the harbour being jam packed, there were no more spaces for longlining to the outside of the north mole and there were boats anchored off the northern shore.
And so, off we went into the morning sunshine for the 50 mile crossing to Kythnos which is where my next post will start!
